Photos for Joshua Tree Trip

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Finally Climbing at Joshua Tree!

Chimney Rock at twilight from our our campsite.
(Left my camera in my pack with Beth so more photos to follow after I retrieve it)

I spent significant time at Joshua Tree in the early 90's, mainly camping and scrambling - felt like I was out there every weekend one year. Knowing what I know now, some of those scrambles would be considered "free solos" probably up to 5.5 in difficulty. Though I wanted to, I never did any technical rock climbing there. Yes, I've often wondered how different a climber I'd be if I started then. Fred and I went once a few years back but ended up only on a couple of scary, thin, and run out sport routes. We just couldn't find the climbs we were looking for in the Real Hidden Valley. The guide book directions are difficult to say the least! I've been hesitant to climb there since.

However this week, the stars aligned perfectly. A good friend, Beth, happens to be planning a trip to JT for the same week. It's one of her all time favorite places to be and knows the area intimately. Not only would she be a great climbing partner and guide, she's driving and could schlep all my climbing and camping gear, saving me a bundle on baggage fees!

I met her mid day Tuesday at Hidden Vally, camp site #3, in front of Chimney Rock and it's infamous "space pod". (You can see our camp site in the linked picture - the low rock near the middle with the rocks to the right creating an arcing border is our site.) It also brought back memories of a dude who climbed up the chimney and got stuck. He scurried up easily but was completely spooked by the down climb. First rule of scrambling, know how to get off the rocks too!

I found Beth napping comfortably on the low rock formation, soaking in the sun. It's great to see her so relaxed and content to just be there. Within a hour of my arrival, we have all our gear together and are ready to climb. Our first route is a short drive away to the North Side of Echo Cove, Fun Stuff. A spooky start for the leader, Beth, but otherwise nice. Then we headed over to the Real Hidden Valley for Sail Away. It's a classic and a wonderful climb. It feels like for every 2-3 hard moves you get to a nice stance with a bomber hold or jam. Honestly one of the first sustained crack 8's I've climbed and thought. 'yes, I could lead this!' Apparently I'm using my outside voice...and within ear shot of Beth. So I'm committed and it's a goal for this trip. My first day here goes better than expected. How could it not! With Indian Creek as my last crack climbing trip, nearly anything else feels "easy"!

We meet Beth's other friends also here for the week, Dave, Ginny and Jean, at camp site #1. I make a broth with napa cabbage & enoki mushrooms. Once hot, Is spoon it over wide rice noodles and roasted duck. I was just in LA that morning; of course, I was going to take advantage of easy access to such incredible ingredients! What a meal!

The next day, Beth leads 3 incredible cracks:
Flake and Bake - gentle start to the day with loads of face features.
Pope's Crack - another classic with a heady traverse near the top
Double Cross - Yet another classic long beautiful fun crack. So nice to have Beth as a guide and get on such great stuff. I think I can lead this too (inside voice)...next trip. Dave, Jean and I follow. Ginny comes by with the election results...Obama won...woo-hoo!!!

I also top British Airways, next to Pope's Crack (since our rap anchors are right over it). Beth complained that I wasn't tired or grunting enough following her leads, and wanted me to take a run on this. Holy Crap! It's the absolute hardest 11 I've barely gotten up! I literally flew off several times...hence it's name, I guess (as well as it's incredibly run out between bolts)! The start looks like a crack but is actually a corner that widens and becomes rounded as it goes up. You have lie back on this and smear thin to non-existent face features. I blow off fairly early on. Above the corner is just blankness. On this section, I successively take after a move or two. Talk about groveling for every inch! Well, Beth got what she wanted, I'm totally spent after wards!

After Double Cross, we head to camp with a nice hour of remaining light. I have so much left over ingredients, I make the same meal again and Jean joins our soup party. Dave and Ginny share a nice bottle of 10 year tawny. We burn a pack of firewood and call it quits with the final embers crackling around 10. With everyone off to bed, I lay out with my sleeping bag on the low rock at our camp site. The sky is still, clear, and occasionally dazzling with shooting stars...apparently the Taurid meteor shower at it's height. I savor my last evening as much as possible, recalling the many past nights spent sleeping out under the same stars over 20 years ago. Some rocks curve perfectly to coddle you and this one lulls me to irrevocable sleepiness around midnight. No longer able to star gaze, I head back to my tent and sleep dreamlessly until 7ish to yipping coyotes.

Today's the day for Sail Away...I'm leaving in the afternoon so this is it. I've been chicken shit this entire season and have to "man up" at some point. We get a late start since I have to strike camp this morning and it's noon by the time we get to the base of the climb. There's already a party there. The leader is nearly done and there are 2 beginner climbers waiting to follow. We decide to wait it out...there's typically a line on this classic so just one party is not bad. Beth attempts to lead the climb next to it. There's no way to protect it until you're already 25-30ft off the deck after having to make a hard layback move. She decides this is not worth it...she wants to save herself for her goal climbs she'll be tackling the next couple of days. So I rack up and wait and wait. Watching the beginners struggle up Sail Away makes me tense and nervous. I climbed this the first day and know it's not a hard climb for me. But watching them struggle makes me "see" the route differently. I turn away and just put my head down. Arg.

I definitely don't climb it as well as a couple of days ago. My feet get stupid and I wonder where those "great stances" have disappeared to, especially near the top. Typical for me, I recall basically nothing about the climb...so much for pre-lead beta! I apparently placed a couple of crappy pieces in the beginning but everything else is bomber. The top gets thin and I really had to work through nerves and harder stances while placing 3 final stoppers. Breathe! Ultimately, I top out clean. Phew and Yeah!!!

We pack up quickly and head back to the warmth of the car. We drive just outside of Jumbo Rocks for Conan's Corridor. With only a couple of hours left before I leave and Beth feeling worn out (work's been hectic lately), we decide call if for climbing and make a hike out of it instead. I've realize too late that I've left my camera in the car! What a shame, this is a truly beautiful spot. It's cinches down to a cool slot canyon then opens up to a handful of beautiful lines. I get to use my old scrambling skills for some sections and it's a blast. I must come back here next time.

Finally, we head over to where Dave's group is climbing, Atlantis Wall in Lost Horse Area (boy, I spent A LOT of time back in here! So many nooks and crannines for scrambling and getting away from it all). They were topping Ceremony. Thank goodness I didn't bring my shoes and harness. The start looks suspiciously like British Airways and I would probably hurt myself on it! We get to see Jean perform a slow and beautiful ballet on it. Amazing control and balance. After she finishes, everyone's ready to call it and have some beer. So we head back to camp and sit under Chimney Rock, hoping the sunniness compensates for the lashing cold multi-directional wind. No matter, I savor a Negro Modelo in great company before saying my farewells.

It's been a wonderful trip and I'm extremely happy how well it went. As you can tell from comments above, I'm already making plans to come back out. I foresee many years climbing here. I'm on the cusp of an interesting new relationship with a wonderful old friend, JT.

Mom's 70'th Birthday Celebration

No one can believe mom's turning 70! I'm lucky to have half her energy level and sometimes have to remind her to slow down?!

Fred and I arrived in LA Friday evening and my brother Klein took us out for a wonderful sushi dinner. I haven't had uni (sea urchin) in years! I never dare unless I'm assured it's absolutely fresh. It's quite a unique flavor. Fred's favorite was the monk fish liver. (Fred: mmmmmm liver!)

Saturday was the big night for the banquet. Somehow creating invites for mom's shindig turned into creating table favors. My "brilliant" idea was to make boxes with photos of her through the years. I have to admit it turned out pretty cool. But making 56 is a labor of love! Thank goodness for all the extra hands (Fred, Albert & Greg) to help fold and ultimately stuff sweet buns into them.



Dinner was to start at 6 at Hop Li's. But with my family, that's the "suggested" arrival time for the early birds. The usual suspects from my mom's side of the family were there (about 36) and the remainder (7) were my dad's brother's family and a friend. Also as usual, it's a lively noisy group.

Mom put together a wonderful 10 course meal, the highlights being a fillet mignon pepper beef, shark fin soup with crab, lobster, 2 steamed rock cods, a mushroom medley over sweet pea greens, and seafood shitake rice. The cake from Kelley's Bakery was once again amazing - a layered cake with chestnut and buttery Napoleon. Yum!

Here's a few photos but cousin Kenny took loads more so I'll add them to the blog later this week.



Mom's photo album by Kenny & Ida
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Indian Creek Weekend, Day 3

Day 3 - Sweet riding on the Sovereign Trails.

Tanya enjoying the slick rock of the Sovereign Trails

It takes a while to strike camp and pack up. By noon-ish, Tanya and I head back towards Moab to ride the Sovereign Trails. It's a new single track system about 12 miles south of town. They're constantly adding to it so we drop by Rim Cyclery to pick up a current map. Up the street is Pasta Jays...how could we not stop for lunch?! Fueled up, we're finally at the "trail head" about 3. Even with map in hand, we're missed the mark on the trail head and the trail! We have one little fun section and then can't find a way to connect back to single track. This is not at all like I remember and I apologzing to Tanya saying there's got to be more and it's all a blast. After tooling around for an hour, we find that we've made a big loop and decide the head back. There are folks at the trailhead - apparently we went the wrong way and just caught the tail end of the system. We go left as directed...jackpot!! It's exactly as I remeber it!! Fun, fast, mild technical challenges, and cool slick rock. Tanya take a scary looking slow spill where she ends up folded in half, head side down, legs over, ass up! She hears me say, "oh", "oh", "oh!" as the slow tumble progresses and yells - 'I'm OK', while still in "position", before I have time to ask. Alls well and it's just good laughs. Shortly after that, it's time to head back, down a quick cider at the car, and meet Glen, Silvia and the kids at Eddy McStiffs. I'm exhausted but it's been an incredible trip!

Indain Creek Weekend, Day 2

Day 2, Stellar climbing at The Reservoir Wall

The gals arrived about 11:30 last night but heard all the raucous noise from our camp and decided to settle down the road at a safe distance. We make arrangements to meet them at the Second Meat Wall. We get there nearly 11:30ish but there are so many cars, we decide to go elsewhere. Good thing! There was apparently a huge party of 20 somethings all in costume! We take our chances at The Reservoir Wall, and except for our large party, there's only two small groups. Silvia sees Pente open and rushes to claim it. It's a classic and always occupied. Not only does she love it, but it's as pure of a crack climb as one can get, all 160 feet of it! For us ladies, it's thin hands to perfect hand jams. She leads it beautifully. I get about 15-20 feet off the ground to the little roof and am totally spanked. Nothing I do makes a difference! There's flailing and then there's failing outright. I haven't had that with climbing since I was a beginner! Disappointment is an understatement. I watch a couple of others give it a run... ahh...the right foot up into the roof crack and stem left. Well, next time. There's a long line for the climb and I doubt I'll have another shot this trip.

So, I belay Dan on an unnamed short (60ft) diahedrahal hand jam climb (fist jam for me). I hadn't had much success with fist jams before. Dan gives me great fist jam beta and it works wonderfully! By mid point, I'm exhausted (poor technique), but scend after that. Fun little climb!

Luckily, I get a second shot at Pente! Bingo, the right foot beta does the trick and I'm up it, no problem. As I climb and wear myself out, Glen yells up helpful hints, like 'point your knee towards the crack'. What a difference that makes! I finally get into a groove about 2/3's up as the crack becomes a perfect hand jam for me. I can relax and not fight for every inch. The rest goes clean to the anchors and I'm jubilant! I haven't been that happy about getting to the top of a climb in years. The line is so beautiful, so sustained, and such an accomplishment for me.

I end the day on a thin crack with lots of stemming possibilities, Dr. Carl. My leg is shaking as I'm exhausted, but this is such a fun kind of climb! There's plenty of rests and barely a need to cam your toes into the crack, so why not. Just as everyone else attests, it's a blast to do and a wonderful way to end the day!


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Completely spent, I head down to the girls camp site for their group meal. Joseffa makes a marvelous dish with penne, veggies, and thai peanut sauce. It hits the spot perfectly. All of us then head up to the main camp site to enjoy the fire, port and chocolate. Yummm! It's a Beth thing but I'm going to make it a part on my camping repertoire. At one point, Dan lights a flare and that provides a surprisingly pleasant and almost christmas-sy ambiance. The evening is lots of laughs but not quite as heightened as the night before.

At about 1:30 (I am a night owl after all), a couple joins the fire, and that seems to stoke a second wind in those remaining. Suddenly 3 new bottles of whiskey appear, and it's my signal to call it. I walk back over the rock rim to my tent. Already, their clamor is mitigated by the boulders encompassing the basin. Those mushroom are aglow again in the moonlight. Coupled with the cool air, a pleasant calm comes over me. I take a short walk to one of the mushrooms across the way, scamper up, and lay on the flat top, star gazing. There is nothing else but this now and I am happy here.

Indian Creek Weekend, Day 1

Day 1 - Superb climbing at The Optimator Wall

The warm sun wakes me. Wondering if I should get up yet, I hear the little voices of Giulia and Keenan. They chatter as they stomp over the rock bar and exclaim "Ooooohhh". (I'm not the only one impressed). They see my tent and realize someone "lives" here and unexpectedly considerate for their age (5 & 4), they start to whisper. How cute!

After my usual camp breakfast (oatmeal and a hard boiled egg), we rack up and head over to climb at The Optimator Wall at the "crack of noon". I get a chance to enhance my off road driving experience in the Audi with a river crossing and fun sandy spots. It's a steep hike up but stunning when we get up there. We settle under a "cave" created by an enormous fallen slab, right by Annunaki. The angles, colors, and reflected light are sublte and sublime. Of course, I forget to pack my camera that day and am so disappointed. Silvia, ever the considerate climber and hostess, picks gentle Lady Pillar to start with. There's plenty of face features for your feet so it's a nice mild warm up. Next, she strings up Neat. It's a dihedrahal crack climb that doesn't become crack only until the mid point. 3 feet beneath the anchors is a small roof. After very important hand camming technique advice from Silvia, I do fine until I get to the roof. Flailing would be an understatement! I take repeatedly and finally crawl my way to the anchors. My final climb of the day is on a thin double crack system, Unnamed B. I make my previous flailing on Neat look like an aquatic dream! Yikes!


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Tanya and I head back to camp with the kids so Glen and Silvia can get some more climbs in. Silvia gets to lead Annunaki with only one fall. It's a crazy hard thin steep crack. Wow.

We play "slack" board with the kids, climb up on one of the mushroom boulder, and take in the sunset. It's dark before the climbing group returns (Silvia, Glen, Matt, Katie, & Matt). Then later in the evening the Friday night arrivals begin (Baca, Tim, Lisa and Drew). As the whiskey bottles are passed, the fire grows larger and the laughter more raucous. At one point, white gas comes to the party. Let's just say whiskey and white gas is a bad combo, and hearing someone yell "drop and roll!" defines a moment like no other! No one is terribly worse for the wear and we are lucky to remember the night as "funny". The night ends (for me) with Glen teaching Ike and Jos how to make "dry fart" sounds (versus wet or walking, he he). Terribly amusing but after 10 minutes or so...it's time for me to hit the sack! Besides, it's 2AM and I need some semblance of sleep if any decent climbing is going to happen.

Indian Creek Weekend

Panorama of my camp spot

What an incredibly beautiful weekend! It's been a while since I've been mesmerized by my camping location!! Many places are nice or convenient, few are spiritual rejuvenations. This is such a place for me. That's just the camping! The climbing is intimidating but exhilirating. It's quite a different sense of accomplishment when you're able to defy gravity and scend one of these climbs. Indian Creek is certainly a new favorite for me!

Early morning arrival

Silvia and I set off Thursday evening and arrive about 1:30 AM. I hammer my last stake in at 2 but wired from driving all night, I need a moment to allow my tiredness in. The back side of the boulders that define our camp area seem like an ideal spot to wind down with a cider. I walk over a small rock bar and my jaw drops. Back here is a large sandy wash encompassed by mushroom shaped boulders aglow in silver in the moonlight. It's like a private bowl. Obviously, I MUST sleep here! Not only is it beautiful, sand is the best to sleep on! There's a wonderfully flat spot encircled by brush, high and to the left of the wash (no one should sleep in a wash afterall!) It takes no time to unstake and transplant the settlement to this perfect spot. The stakes sink in easily with a simple stomp on each and home is set. Back up to my cider sipping spot, I bask in the crazy bright half moon light. Fred would love this; Fred needs this. I resolve to bring him here some future 2AM half moon night. Overwhelmed by the beauty, believing it temporal and fragile, as if it doesn't happen nightly here, I can't tear myself away until the cold penetrates my layers. By 3AM, I force myself into the tent and sleep well into the morning.

Day 1 - Superb climbing at The Optimator Wall

Day 2 - Stellar climbing at The Reservoir Wall

Day 3 - Sweet riding on the Sovereign Trails.

Goldfish

Ha!

The Front Fell Off!

Wow - too funny! It's like a Monty Python skit but it's a real interview!!

Climbing Log: Turkey Rocks

Climbed Turkey Rocks in the South Platte this weekend with the gals - Silvia, Tori, Kira, Kre, Joseffa, and the kids (Giulia,Ike and Jos). The weather was suppose to be rainy, especially on Sunday. Originally, the plan was to go to Indian Creek, in Utah close to Moab. But the thought of rain on soft sandstone is beyond frightening. Hence we chose to stay closer to home and take advantage of the better forecast for Saturday at least. If Sunday turned sour as forecasted (50% chance), then it was only a couple hours to head home.

As luck would have it, the weather held out on Sat, only spitting in the late afternoon. Sunday however was absolutely beautiful! The wind abated, it was partially sunny, and in the 70's - a perfect day to be out!

I won't go over too much detail about the climbs as time does not permit but wanted to get the climbs logged in. I didn't lead a thing - my first 7 was fairly stiff and enough to put me in full chicken mode. Here, Here! to all the gals that did lead, especially on the final day - wow those climbs are hard!!

Day 1 -
Turkey Perch: Honky Jam Ass Crack (L- Tori), Ragger Bagger & Reefer Madness
All the kid climbed HJAC and were amazing!

Day 2 -
Turkey Tail: Turkey’s Delight (L - Joseffa & Silvia) & Rasmussen (L - Kre / I can't believe I made it to the top of this even on TR!). The tough ladies (i.e. not me) also did Whimsical Dreams (L - Joseffa)

Turkey Perch: Left Handed Jew (L - Silvia & Tori) Giulia made it to the top of this & hung out nonchalantly as mom self belayed herself up to retrieve her. Giulia was too light to be lowered! Concerned? Not at all...she entertained herself by swinging on the rope and going "whhheeeeee!"

Once again, not a lot of photos but here are some cute ones: