Cynical Pinnacle

Though the stars did not align for us to get out to Indian Creek this weekend, Dave, Wally and I took advantage of super weather Saturday and went to Cynical Pinnacle in the South Platte. Neither Dave nor I had been there. It was a steep approach but not as bad as Wally remembered from past trips out there.

We climbed Center Route, sweet 3 pitches to nearly the top of the spire. I lead p1, very nice with a mildly spicy layback finish. P2 was a very burly 9+…good lead Dave! P3 was a blast and Wally motored up it. At the top, there’s a “bonus” 11b, Class Act, to top out on the spire. Dave was the only one that managed to top out. Wally and I suffered from freezing our a$$es off syndrome and our hands became too stoopid and useless to master the thin traverse. Regardless, a super climbing day, especially for late November.

So how better to celebrate? Buck Snort!! It’s actually gotten better…microbrews on tap now! But being what it is, we ate quickly and decided to head out to better digs to celebrate. Just as we’re deliberating, I get a fb alert that Kira and kids are heading over to Mead Street Station in the Highlands so Ike can play with the band. Erin joined us there too. It was a fun surprise and we had a blast cheering on Ike and celebrating with Kira’s family. A super topper to a great day of climbing.



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Devil's Tower

Another great climbing trip! I've never climbed at Devil's Tower before but Fred and I did visit it a few years back. This place has a special place in my heart (I love Close Encounters of the Third Kind!!!) but as a climbing destination, it has always intimidated me. In particular are the famous photos of people climbing El Matador and the extreme stemming up the 'elevator shaft'. Hmmm...my legs are a lot shorter than that...yikes!!



(Can't see the above slideshow? Click here.)

Day 1

We start on the northeast side of the tower, nice and shady (it was 90 the first two days). I lead the first pitches of New Wave and Broken Tree. Fairly easy leads but a big step for me who thought the most I'd do would be one lead on the last day after getting a feel for the place. The second pitches on both climbs are great. New Wave has a couple of tricky spots but nothing outrageous. Broken Tree is just a blast! I can actually see myself leading this...next year...I think.

Then we go further right to McCarthy's North Face. The longest single pitch I've ever led! It's nearly 70m (200'). It takes every bit of me to finish. Between all the other climbs of the day and the incredible rope drag forcing me to muscle through every simple move for the last 75 ft, I'm absolutely exhausted when I finally get to the anchors. Mentally, it felt more akin to a marathon than a climb. The crux is at the end and I think I'm powering through to a nice comfy ledge. I pop my head over and see another 10+ feet of a slabby dihedral crack climb before the anchors. Jerry speeds up the climb and it's an incredible work out belaying him and keeping pace. With the hour getting late and my exhaustion level, I do something I almost never do...opt out of a chance to even try the stellar 11A climb that follows. When Jerry gets to the "ledge", I rap down and watch Dave lead p2. It's a stout and strenuous lead for Dave and Jerry also takes a couple of falls on it. I have some regrets about not staying and giving it a run but it'll be another goal for next year.

We get to the camp site at dark...our camp mates are more than ready for dinner but we have all the ingredients! Dave and Jerry quickly whip up dinner - buffalo marinara pasta...delicious!! Later in the evening, we head over to the front of the KOA (the best one I've ever stayed at!) and watch the nightly showing of Close Encounters. I can practically recite the lines. Amazingly, I'm so tired that I'm dozing off near the end of it. I head back to my tent and sleep well.

Day 2

Beth, Jean, and I go to the northeast side of tower. The previous day, they had a miserable time climbing in the sun. Beth got sun stroke and had to call it. So today, it's all about what we can do to stay in the shade. Beth leads the first pitch of Broken Tree for a warm up. Then we head over to check out some climbs but settle on Mystic and the Mulchers which John and Bruce just climbed. This is suppose to be easier than McCarthy's North Face, but I find it very spicy with a heart stopping moment or two! It's a much thinner crack with narrow flaring spots - not gear friendly like all of yesterday's climbs! About mid way up, I place a RP, go for the move, my feet slip and I nearly fall. I manage to keep hold and scurry to a very secure stance. Looking down I see that my RP 's pulled out. I had run it out before that so if I had fallen without the RP, it would have been quite a whipper. I also didn't consider the length of this climb (about 140') when I started and took only about 11 or 12 draws. Do the math! Another stress factor is that I couldn't see the anchors for 99% of the climb and was very confused about how much further to go and how much more gear I needed to conserve or not. In any case, I finish the sucker with no draws left, only one medium sized nut, and a hand full of cams. Arg. Lesson learned on both fronts. Later I compare notes with Todd and he nicknamed the climb "Butt Muncher". Enough said?

After Jean and Beth run it, it's about 3 and no one is up for another lead. Dave and Jerry pop up and they say they're done for the day too so that cinches it...we head back to camp, get ice cream, take showers, and chug beers before dinner. Ahhh, dinner...nearly an epic of it's own! The short story is it takes us 4 tries to find a restaurant that's open and/or we want to eat at. We finally end up at the BBQ place just around the corner from the KOA, eat a very hearty meal, and wait nearly an hour for them to tally and add up our bill. It's about 10:45 before the dinner 'ordeal' is over and we're back at camp chuckling it up over wine.

Day 3

Not much to day 3 except the KOA's camp pony gets loose and 'wanders' into our campsite. Wander is an understatement since Bruce lured him over with bread and tried to get him to step into Todd and Kristen's tent while they're still asleep. Yeah - we laughed for a while about that! Dave R, Debbie, and Jean stay for more climbs. Poor Beth stays in camp due to a groin pull. The rest of us hit the road for the long drive back to town. I would have loved to climb some more...next year!

Indain Creek Weekend, Day 2

Day 2, Stellar climbing at The Reservoir Wall

The gals arrived about 11:30 last night but heard all the raucous noise from our camp and decided to settle down the road at a safe distance. We make arrangements to meet them at the Second Meat Wall. We get there nearly 11:30ish but there are so many cars, we decide to go elsewhere. Good thing! There was apparently a huge party of 20 somethings all in costume! We take our chances at The Reservoir Wall, and except for our large party, there's only two small groups. Silvia sees Pente open and rushes to claim it. It's a classic and always occupied. Not only does she love it, but it's as pure of a crack climb as one can get, all 160 feet of it! For us ladies, it's thin hands to perfect hand jams. She leads it beautifully. I get about 15-20 feet off the ground to the little roof and am totally spanked. Nothing I do makes a difference! There's flailing and then there's failing outright. I haven't had that with climbing since I was a beginner! Disappointment is an understatement. I watch a couple of others give it a run... ahh...the right foot up into the roof crack and stem left. Well, next time. There's a long line for the climb and I doubt I'll have another shot this trip.

So, I belay Dan on an unnamed short (60ft) diahedrahal hand jam climb (fist jam for me). I hadn't had much success with fist jams before. Dan gives me great fist jam beta and it works wonderfully! By mid point, I'm exhausted (poor technique), but scend after that. Fun little climb!

Luckily, I get a second shot at Pente! Bingo, the right foot beta does the trick and I'm up it, no problem. As I climb and wear myself out, Glen yells up helpful hints, like 'point your knee towards the crack'. What a difference that makes! I finally get into a groove about 2/3's up as the crack becomes a perfect hand jam for me. I can relax and not fight for every inch. The rest goes clean to the anchors and I'm jubilant! I haven't been that happy about getting to the top of a climb in years. The line is so beautiful, so sustained, and such an accomplishment for me.

I end the day on a thin crack with lots of stemming possibilities, Dr. Carl. My leg is shaking as I'm exhausted, but this is such a fun kind of climb! There's plenty of rests and barely a need to cam your toes into the crack, so why not. Just as everyone else attests, it's a blast to do and a wonderful way to end the day!


(Unable to view slide show? Click here)

Completely spent, I head down to the girls camp site for their group meal. Joseffa makes a marvelous dish with penne, veggies, and thai peanut sauce. It hits the spot perfectly. All of us then head up to the main camp site to enjoy the fire, port and chocolate. Yummm! It's a Beth thing but I'm going to make it a part on my camping repertoire. At one point, Dan lights a flare and that provides a surprisingly pleasant and almost christmas-sy ambiance. The evening is lots of laughs but not quite as heightened as the night before.

At about 1:30 (I am a night owl after all), a couple joins the fire, and that seems to stoke a second wind in those remaining. Suddenly 3 new bottles of whiskey appear, and it's my signal to call it. I walk back over the rock rim to my tent. Already, their clamor is mitigated by the boulders encompassing the basin. Those mushroom are aglow again in the moonlight. Coupled with the cool air, a pleasant calm comes over me. I take a short walk to one of the mushrooms across the way, scamper up, and lay on the flat top, star gazing. There is nothing else but this now and I am happy here.

Indian Creek Weekend, Day 1

Day 1 - Superb climbing at The Optimator Wall

The warm sun wakes me. Wondering if I should get up yet, I hear the little voices of Giulia and Keenan. They chatter as they stomp over the rock bar and exclaim "Ooooohhh". (I'm not the only one impressed). They see my tent and realize someone "lives" here and unexpectedly considerate for their age (5 & 4), they start to whisper. How cute!

After my usual camp breakfast (oatmeal and a hard boiled egg), we rack up and head over to climb at The Optimator Wall at the "crack of noon". I get a chance to enhance my off road driving experience in the Audi with a river crossing and fun sandy spots. It's a steep hike up but stunning when we get up there. We settle under a "cave" created by an enormous fallen slab, right by Annunaki. The angles, colors, and reflected light are sublte and sublime. Of course, I forget to pack my camera that day and am so disappointed. Silvia, ever the considerate climber and hostess, picks gentle Lady Pillar to start with. There's plenty of face features for your feet so it's a nice mild warm up. Next, she strings up Neat. It's a dihedrahal crack climb that doesn't become crack only until the mid point. 3 feet beneath the anchors is a small roof. After very important hand camming technique advice from Silvia, I do fine until I get to the roof. Flailing would be an understatement! I take repeatedly and finally crawl my way to the anchors. My final climb of the day is on a thin double crack system, Unnamed B. I make my previous flailing on Neat look like an aquatic dream! Yikes!


(Unable to view slide show? Click here)

Tanya and I head back to camp with the kids so Glen and Silvia can get some more climbs in. Silvia gets to lead Annunaki with only one fall. It's a crazy hard thin steep crack. Wow.

We play "slack" board with the kids, climb up on one of the mushroom boulder, and take in the sunset. It's dark before the climbing group returns (Silvia, Glen, Matt, Katie, & Matt). Then later in the evening the Friday night arrivals begin (Baca, Tim, Lisa and Drew). As the whiskey bottles are passed, the fire grows larger and the laughter more raucous. At one point, white gas comes to the party. Let's just say whiskey and white gas is a bad combo, and hearing someone yell "drop and roll!" defines a moment like no other! No one is terribly worse for the wear and we are lucky to remember the night as "funny". The night ends (for me) with Glen teaching Ike and Jos how to make "dry fart" sounds (versus wet or walking, he he). Terribly amusing but after 10 minutes or so...it's time for me to hit the sack! Besides, it's 2AM and I need some semblance of sleep if any decent climbing is going to happen.

Indian Creek Weekend

Panorama of my camp spot

What an incredibly beautiful weekend! It's been a while since I've been mesmerized by my camping location!! Many places are nice or convenient, few are spiritual rejuvenations. This is such a place for me. That's just the camping! The climbing is intimidating but exhilirating. It's quite a different sense of accomplishment when you're able to defy gravity and scend one of these climbs. Indian Creek is certainly a new favorite for me!

Early morning arrival

Silvia and I set off Thursday evening and arrive about 1:30 AM. I hammer my last stake in at 2 but wired from driving all night, I need a moment to allow my tiredness in. The back side of the boulders that define our camp area seem like an ideal spot to wind down with a cider. I walk over a small rock bar and my jaw drops. Back here is a large sandy wash encompassed by mushroom shaped boulders aglow in silver in the moonlight. It's like a private bowl. Obviously, I MUST sleep here! Not only is it beautiful, sand is the best to sleep on! There's a wonderfully flat spot encircled by brush, high and to the left of the wash (no one should sleep in a wash afterall!) It takes no time to unstake and transplant the settlement to this perfect spot. The stakes sink in easily with a simple stomp on each and home is set. Back up to my cider sipping spot, I bask in the crazy bright half moon light. Fred would love this; Fred needs this. I resolve to bring him here some future 2AM half moon night. Overwhelmed by the beauty, believing it temporal and fragile, as if it doesn't happen nightly here, I can't tear myself away until the cold penetrates my layers. By 3AM, I force myself into the tent and sleep well into the morning.

Day 1 - Superb climbing at The Optimator Wall

Day 2 - Stellar climbing at The Reservoir Wall

Day 3 - Sweet riding on the Sovereign Trails.

Climbing Log: Turkey Rocks

Climbed Turkey Rocks in the South Platte this weekend with the gals - Silvia, Tori, Kira, Kre, Joseffa, and the kids (Giulia,Ike and Jos). The weather was suppose to be rainy, especially on Sunday. Originally, the plan was to go to Indian Creek, in Utah close to Moab. But the thought of rain on soft sandstone is beyond frightening. Hence we chose to stay closer to home and take advantage of the better forecast for Saturday at least. If Sunday turned sour as forecasted (50% chance), then it was only a couple hours to head home.

As luck would have it, the weather held out on Sat, only spitting in the late afternoon. Sunday however was absolutely beautiful! The wind abated, it was partially sunny, and in the 70's - a perfect day to be out!

I won't go over too much detail about the climbs as time does not permit but wanted to get the climbs logged in. I didn't lead a thing - my first 7 was fairly stiff and enough to put me in full chicken mode. Here, Here! to all the gals that did lead, especially on the final day - wow those climbs are hard!!

Day 1 -
Turkey Perch: Honky Jam Ass Crack (L- Tori), Ragger Bagger & Reefer Madness
All the kid climbed HJAC and were amazing!

Day 2 -
Turkey Tail: Turkey’s Delight (L - Joseffa & Silvia) & Rasmussen (L - Kre / I can't believe I made it to the top of this even on TR!). The tough ladies (i.e. not me) also did Whimsical Dreams (L - Joseffa)

Turkey Perch: Left Handed Jew (L - Silvia & Tori) Giulia made it to the top of this & hung out nonchalantly as mom self belayed herself up to retrieve her. Giulia was too light to be lowered! Concerned? Not at all...she entertained herself by swinging on the rope and going "whhheeeeee!"

Once again, not a lot of photos but here are some cute ones:

Climbing Log: Boulder Canyon, Happy Hour Crag

The following Sunday, 8/9, Tori is also free, so we head back to the Happy Hour Crag. The previous Sunday, we eye the 8's next to our climb, Twofers and Twofers Bypass. The roof on Twofers looks heady on lead. So to get a nice warm up, we re-do , I Robot. Tori, once again, no problem. I decide to lead it, since I didn't lead the dihedral section last time. Not too bad. I run out the top of the dihedral at the top of it...seemed better just to go than try to place gear in such an awkward position. This time, the finger crack section is no real problem, particularly the crux.

Unfortunately, as I finish this, we see clouds rolling in again. We decide to top rope the 8's and get in several runs before the rain comes again. The roof on twofers is not bad at all as long as you stem your right leg behind you on the crack to get your body as high as possible. There's a for your left hand and nice brick for your right over the lip. Another one move wonder. Everything before and after is a cake walk. We then hop on Are We Not Men then finish with the rain on Twofers Bypass. We found both of these breezes too. Seemed to us, that I Robot was a bit stiffer than these three with exceptions on the one move cruxes. So it goes.

We pack up and head over to the Tea House again, but it's booked for a wedding so we can't have any scotch eggs! :( So we walk over to Boulder Cafe (?) instead and chow down on sandwiches. Ok but no scotch eggs!

Climbing Log: Boulder Canyon, Happy Hour Crag

(Been way behind on postings!)

Climbed in Boulder Canyon 2 weekends in a row, 8/2 and 8/9. Never been there before. The rock is a wonderful friendly granite. Charis, Tori and I headed out for an easy climbing day on 8/2 and Happy Hour Crag fit the bill. It's so friendly, I finally get my first trad leads of the season in! Yeah!!

The online guide tells of overcrowding on weekends...except for us, there was only 3 other groups there. We started on the far left with the easiest climb in the book, I Robot. Tori, who's been trad leading for years, shot up it easily. I followed and found the initial dihedral with a flared crack a little awkward. The finger crack at the top was a breeze...on top rope. After one full found and waiting out a little bit of rain, I find my nerve and decide to lead the easy variation that starts slightly to the left of the dihedral. The start is then only 5.6., and joins with I Robot for the mid and finish. As I start, the rain begins. The bottom section is a breeze! When I reach the finger crack section, the rain picks up...but more disturbingly, the lightening gets closer, rather than letting up. The finger crack is completely straight forward except for the last move before the jug on top of the flake. There's a small smear for your right foot, and you sort of have to gaston the crack with both hands with your left foot cammed in the crack. Just feels extraordinarily committing on lead plus I've never even fallen on trad gear before. I must be on this spot, unable to commit, for at least 5 minutes. Of course, it doesn't help that a bright flash hits the ridge above us . I look down, and Tori has a helpful smile on her face as her hand gestures, move up...go... Finally, I take a deep breath, tell my silly self, "You're able to hang on pinches in the bouldering cave...so no matter what, you can power through this! Dumbass, just do it!!" This is actually a "calming" mantra and I finally just go. It's literally a one move wonder, I get through it, clip into the anchors...and in pouring rain, clean so we can get out of there. I'm actually fairly exhilarated with my first trad lead of the season.

We go clean up at Charis' and head over to the Boulder Dushanbe Tea House. Cool place! The lunch menu is akin to indian cuisine. We decide to order a bunch of apps and share. My favorite is the Scotch Eggs, basically a hard boiled egg encased in pheasant sausage and deep fried. My "tea" drink is Hibiscus tea with sparkling wine. Charis had a green tea mojito...the best mojito I've ever had! Everything was exception for lunch. The desserts weren't too impressive though. But all in all, an amazing day!

Climbing Log: Castlewood Canyon, Grocery Store Wall

Climbed at Castlewood Canyon with Janet. Short routes but interesting. Topped everything...'cuz you can. For my Dallas, TX friends, this reminded me of Mineral Wells. This wall is conglomerate so fairly rough but lots of interesting huecos and embedded pebbles. We started fairly mellow with with Licorice Stick and Rain Dance.
I found the start of Rain Dance Crack, to be a difficult thin move but otherwise very nice. We ended surrounded by mosquitoes on Gorilla Milk Direct so called it after the initial climb. We'd like to get back there again but on the east side where the rock looks more like sandstone and the cracks more sustained.

Action Filled Week!

...and I'm so tired! My whole body is sore. Not like when I was in my 20's or even 30's. There's just no bouncing back no matter how hectic. I think I need a rest week, not just a rest day! :)

Here's the recap:

Wednesday - Climbed Clear Creek Canyon, Lower Capitalist Crag, with Andrea after work.
Friday - Hosted Boulder/Pizza night
Saturday - Rode Buffalo Creek trails with Paul, Sandi and Mike
Sunday - Climbed Lumpy Ridge, George's Tree, in Estes Park with Silvia

Phew! I'm exhausted but completely happy and excited about having an action filled summer this year!! I’m also going to try and keep my blog more current with the rides and climbs I’m doing. If nothing else, it’s a nice place to log my activities…god knows I have trouble remembering the simplest things nowadays!

Climbing Log: Lumpy Ridge, The Book, George's Tree

View taken of Long's Peak during hike back to car.

My alarm sounded off at 5:30AM (a novelty for me!) and I picked up Silvia to climb at Lumpy Ridge in Estes Park. The last time I was there, Fred and I climbed a 5.6 on Sundance Buttress. A spooky slabby traverse on the 3rd pitch had me quaking in my boots! Ahh, old school ratings! Nothing better to put you in your place. There’s also the infamous afternoon thunderstorms to add to the character of Lumpy Ridge. But today, the weather’s perfect! A touch of wind, mild cloud cover by mid day to shelter us from the sun, and temps in the 70’s.

We arrive, probably around 8:30 AM, and hike about 1.5 miles to The Book. We settle on George's Tree, where maybe I can lead the 3rd pitch. The first two pitches can be summed up in what Silvia yelled down to me right before launching into pitch 1, "Welcome to flare [crack] school!" No kidding!! I do okay on the p1, but on p2, the flared crack widened and deepened which renders my toe jamming useless. I actually watched Silvia do the toe/heel foot jam and told myself to make a mental note to do the same. Of course, when time came, I smear, slip, and slap to no avail. After taking twice and Silvia kindly yells down beta about the toe/heel jam. It works! I grunt, shimmy, and inch my way up through that section then to the belay ledge. Pitch 2 and I'm wiped! Silvia points upward to the next crack section and asks if I want to lead it. After that last zinger, I knew I was out of my league. I remember someone saying that there is nothing graceful about crack climbing (unless you're one of the top folks). You use just about any body part available to you to make a go of it. It's a true full body workout. God know why I have a bruise on the top of my shoulder?!

For p3 we end up a little off route and do the left side of The Box. Thus, for our we traverse right up a doable crack, then traverse left up a dihedral to get to back on track. As a result, there's so much rope drag that we stop short of the top out and set up a belay about 20-30 feet below. P5's fairly easy, but my legs are spent and shaky by this point and each step up is a work out.

What a spectacular view from the top! Did I bring my camera up? Nope, down in the pack, of course. We take in the view for a little bit before heading down the exit scramble. I really enjoyed the scramble, reminded me of my Joshua Tree days (I never rock climbed, only scrambled). All that scrambling there made this second nature and a blast. My legs burn during the final minutes of the hike out and we get to the car around 6:30PM - what a long day! Weary yet rejuvenated; I'm truly excited that there are more days like this in store. With climbing partners like Andrea and Silvia, the possibilities are endless!

Climbing Log: Clear Creek Canyon, Lower Capitalist Crag

After work, I climbed Clear Creek Canyon, Lower Capitalist Crag, with Andrea. What a strong climber and gentle soul. We started with Cheap Labor, pretty mild until the last 2 bolts on the blank face to the anchors. Small thin features had me chanting "trust your feet, trust your feet...". I didn't and took twice. I finally mustered my courage, trusted my feet, got precariously high enough the clip the last bolt. Thank god I was pink pointing!! I'd otherwise have to make another move after that to get the draw in and frankly I don't think I had it in me to commit through. Andrea then led Aries (I think), a fairly run out spooky lead. Fun climb and was glad I didn't lead it. Finally in the waning light, Andrea led Stroh's, an 11A. This thing completely spanked me! I couldn't even get to the second bolt!! I fortunately, had the humility and foresight to ask Andrea to put the rope through the anchors on her lead in case I couldn't do the climb. She only had to re-climb and clean the first 3 bolts used as directionals. We packed up with the last of the light and headed to Ali Baba's for a satisfying Mediterranean meal and great conversation.

All Girl Climb/Camp Weekend...yes honey, that does mean you can't come!

Spent a wonderful weekend with a group of intelligent and savvy outdoor enthusiasts who happen to all be women. It's so funny how many men & significant others asked if they could come. What part of "All Girls" don't you understand?! Some of the other gals recalled their last "all girl" camp outs. After racking my brain, I'd have to say this is my very first! Sure I've camped with a girlfriend before but not a whole group.

I have to admit, initially, I was tentative that there would be too much "estrogen" for me. Instead I was completely blown away by how brilliant, diverse and accomplished these women are - not just in their outdoor activities. There were also lots of women specific topics too and I think I learned way more about the trials and tribulations of breast feeding than I ever wanted! And yes, lots and lots of laughs for the entire weekend. Best part, I think I walked away with some new found friends for life!

We camped and climbed at Vedauwoo, WY, just a short 2 1/2 hours north of Denver. Beautiful granite rock formations that reminds me very much of my beloved Joshua Tree NP. It's the first time I've delved into crack climbing (vs. face/sport climbing). Wow, it's different! I was reduced to novice and struggled at everything. But the support and patience from all the gals helped me persevere.

On of the gals, Kira, is a writer for The Mile Hive. Here's her cool article about our weekend: Inside an all-lady outdoors get-away.

Yes, another trip where I took absolutely zero photos. I wanted to make sure my engagement was completely devoted to climbing and socializing. I only knew a couple of the ladies and the last thing I wanted to was annoy them with my camera and it's phallic lens! The rest of you know me well enough that I don't have to give a crap about annoying you!! ;) Here are some pix from Kira, Kre and Andrea:


(Group Shot: Kre, Kira, Beth, Andrea, Ida, Silvia & Tanya)

Here's my climbing log for the trip: All Girl Climb/Camp Weekend - Climbing Log

All Girl Climb/Camp Weekend - Climbing Log

The first day was spent around the Nautilus. I followed the first pitches of Captain Nemo, the Grand Traverse and Friday the 13th. I had an easier time with the Grand Traverse than Captain Nemo though it was suppose to be easier. The Grand Traverse had more for my left foot (not in the crack) to use where as the rock around Captain Nemo seem smooth and barren of features. Also, my belayer Silvia, an immensely experienced climber, gave me a great primer on how to place a hand jam. What a difference!! But didn't help much with Friday the 13...boy was that ugly! My lack of crack climbing technique had me lie backing the first part...strenuous to say the least. Then I got a primer on how to properly cam my toes into the crack. Much better but painful! I think I just about took every few feet. It's a miracle I made it to the anchors!

The second day was spent at the Fall Wall primarily slab climbing. Foot work and trust are big factors and when it's been a while, it's hard to feel anything but wigged out...even on top rope! We climbed 5.11 Crack (actually rated 5.9), Cold Finger and Gunga Din. Amazing how the smallest non-feature is HUGE with this kind of climbing. The first two went well enough but Gunga Din was crazy hard and barren! Yes, there was lots of taking, grunting and chewing...I was sucking on Shot Bloks and every time the slab got nasty, I demolished the blok with nervous chewing.

I was suppose to try and lead an easy 5.4 crack but honestly, the slab climbing had my nerves on end and my head unscrewed (...more than usual). So we went on to Edward's Crack on Walt's Wall instead. Beth and Silvia led with Tanya and I in tow. I found the middle of the first pitch the hardest. It's was larger than a fist crack for me but not large enough for a chicken wing. I know what all the books say I'm suppose to do, but at the moment, all that info was useless static. After some dropped gear (I was just butter fingers the entire weekend!), a stuck cam and a nut tool (how not to lower a nut tool while on a finger/hand crack), and Beth's scary lead fall at the top of the second pitch, we made it to the anchors, waited for the Silvia and Tanya, rapped down, and walked out chilled, tired, hungry but happy.

Home Gym Projects: Bump & Grind

Finally nailed my latest home project, Bump & Grind! It took 2 months, again! I know I look "angry" at the end but just so charged to finally finish it. In fact, what you are seeing is take two! My first was minutes prior but not recorded...the SD card filled up just as it was being filmed. Also, I was so close for so long; it's very sustained and I couldn't stick the final 2-finger pocket before the exit and had to work just that move for the last 2 weeks! Bouldering...frustrating yet fun.

Norfolk Daily News article: Scaling the Niobrara

Update: links to Norfolk Daily News article and video.

Ice Climbing at Niobrara River Ranch, Nebraska

We attended the 1st Annual The Niobrara Ice Jam not knowing what to expect. Honestly...the concept of ice climbing in Nebraska is a little hard to wrap your head around. It's as incongruous as bobsledding in Jamaica! Sure the internet site says the tallest walls are as high as 180 ft but ice pillars & sand hills? We were intrigued since we first heard about it last year. With their 1st ice jam ever, we thought what better time than to join in on the festivities.

Being the first fest (and in NE afterall), we joked that we might be the only ones there. Well jokes on us and them...we practically were!! Sure, we didn't expect the pros to be there but at least some "real" icers for us to marvel at. Because of it's novelty, there were journalist from the Norfolk Daily News, Sandy (writer) and Darin (photographer), and a nature photographer for Nebraskaland Magazine, Mike Forsberg. Well, you won't find too many pictures by me for once...with those two pros taking them...why bother!

Norfolk Daily News article: Scaling the Niobrara

How ironic that we'll be the featured climbers for the ice jam! We hadn't ice climbed all season and any one who knows us, knows that we're not "hard core" or terribly serious on ice. Just your average "hackers" (har har...get it...we're in computers and we hack on ice...sorry). Our group was Joe, Janet, Mike, Jim and Fred. It's Janet's second time out and Mike's first; he's 12, by the way.

I've never climbed on untouched ice before; it's really a different experience as compared the routes we do in Ouray or Vail which are so chopped out that you might as well have tape on the lines...pick here, step there, etc. I found myself using my head a lot more...constantly scanning, reading the ice for good placements or hooks. According to Stuart, (chief ranger for the Niobrara National Wild and Scenic Riverway) , we even did 2-3 first ascents! As if that wasn't enough...there's no significant approaches either...untouched ice and no approach...could we ask for more?!

So you can tell the trip was incredible! The location, people and weather were superb (high 30's to high 40's by the end of the weekend). The welcome and hospitality of everyone from Nebraska was heartening. It was a great set up and first class ice. Lee, the host (the climbing area is located on his property, Niobrara River Ranch), set up warming huts (think full out gorgeous cabin) with home made chili. Tim, owner of Yucca Dune Sporting store, hosted a film fest at his store & lounge in the evening. We unfortunately didn't partake as much as we wanted to...we're late starters which means ending each day by twilight. Besides, our beautiful cabin stocked with beer, sake, port and scotch was too enticing!

Daily blow by blow for those interested.

Niobrara Ice Climbing, Daily Summary

Picture courtesy of Stuart Schneider.
Janet lowering on line 3 and me climbing line 4.

DAY 1

We arrive in Valentine Friday noon and head over to Yucca Dune to sign in for the ice fest. The sheet is completely blank; our names are first on the sheet. Joe and Janet mosey in next...and....that's it (a South Dakota group arrives later in the day and climbs at Simmons Cliff Saturday). We chat with a handful of folks there: Tim (the organizer and owner? of Yucca Dune), Stuart (chief ranger for the Niobrara National Wild and Scenic Riverway ), and Sandy and Darin (journalist & photographer for the Norfolk Daily News). Turns out Darin can only be in town Friday and needs shots for their article. We agree to have him accompany us for the day. Our original plan was to kick back, check in, check out the site and only maybe climb. Now we're committed!

With Sandy and Darin in tow, we finally get to the the climbing area (its own short story), take a very short walk through the trees and WOW! We're at the edge of the cliff and it's a long way down to the river valley. It's real, it's wild and best of all, it's untouched!


(Ice was in much more fully than in this picture)

We set lots of anchors to secure ourselves and the photographer on the steep snowy slope. None of us can actually see any of the wall below until we lower. Hmmm...lowering into the unknown...let's send Joe first! He's the climbing stud on our trip and will do this on every line. We decide that the easiest and least steep line is appropriate, #1. It's a WI3, slopey on bottom, topping out in a 25-35 ft near vertical section. It's late afternoon before I'm on it, the last to go. As I'm being lowered, I eye the beautiful pillars lines with perfect icicles to the left. They're simply beautiful. The climb is tame, short but nice to get back in the swing of it. We wrap up with Darin and Sandy (Norfolk Daily News article: Scaling the Niobrara) , have a beer or two at the cabin and head to town for huge cuts of prime rib at Jordans. It's a good day!

DAY 2

Jim and Mike arrive; we have a hearty breakfast (care of Joe and Janet on both mornings. They rule!), and we don't get out to the climbing area until noon-ish. Mike's a novice so we redo line 1. He's 12, never climbed but a couple times in a gym years ago. The kid has no problem with us lowering him over the edge into the literal unknown! Joe lowers too and gives him a primer. In no time, we hear those distinct thwacking sounds and his head pops up and over. Scaled it and we don't think he broke a sweat!

Line 2 is a short but sustained 30-40 ft WI4 pillar. It's steep and pumpy but there are lots of wonderful hooks which reduces hacking to half. Joe and Fred cruise it. Janet takes a small fall near the top but otherwise masters it, better than I ever did my second second trip out ice climbing. Mike's up for it but it proves too difficult for his limited experience. What's a hook?! He's spent half way up and just can't make anymore headway. So Joe lowers to talk him through. The kid listens stoically, musters the last of his strength and determination, and steadily makes his way up the last of it. What a trooper! Mike F., the photographer, got great shots of Joe, Janet and Mike climbing before they headed out. As soon as we get those, we'll send them out too. They had to leave before they saw Mike through the climb so here are my pix of Mike finishing line 2. (click on pic to access album). These are the only pix I took all weekend.



I'm last to climb for the day, so again another wonderful twilight as I get up and over. By the time we wrap up, it's sunset. It's back to the cabin to clean up and down some refreshments. For dinner, we head back to Jordans, indulge in beef and fried chicken for me. Hearty meals, lots of laughs and lots to share about our day out.

DAY 3

On the last day, we hook up with Stuart and Mike F. Joe had chatted them up the previous day while they were shooting us and they stop by the cabin to see if we'll be out climbing. Apparently we're the only ones again and they would like more shots. Stuart knows the cliff very well and shows us the climbs he has in mind, the area on the far left in the picture - never been climbed. Of course Joe goes first! He makes pretty fast work of it. What a stud!

Line 3 is about a 40 ft WI4...not counting the last 15ft top out on sandy semi frozen dirt! We started calling the "dirt" part of the climb gardening. So we'd give it a grade of G3! :) This face consists of a thin mid section about 2-3 ft across framed by 2 thicker sections for which to pick and kick - it's stemmy, sustained & pumpy. For the G section, you have to hack over the dirt lip to get some purchase and stand on the top of the ice pillar. Kicking into the dirt held well. I had a hard time with the axes though. It's a strange mix of too hard and too soft. Either I couldn't get my picks in or if I did, the moment I put any pressure on them, the sand would give out. Meanwhile, sandy dirt is flying everywhere as I hack away...into my boots the long way...vis-a-vis the top of my bib. I was still spitting out sand the next day! After the lip, the sandy dirt was more cooperative and allowed for full pick sinkers, phew! For the final lip to the belay station, there's a wonderful tree to hook and top out. I'm completely exhausted and pumped when I get to the top. A great climb with truly unique Niobrara characteristics...climbing sand!

Mike tried this one too. Again, what a trooper! He got to the pillar and started having trouble. With Joe to the rescue with some pointers, Mike has no problem climbing it all himself! I think we have winner here. Watch out pros!

Line 4, is definitely a WI5. It's nearly a 60 ft of ice shaped so that you can stem it too, though not as widely as #3. Very sustained vertical ice. There's two small rest ledges at about 25ft and then 40ft. Thank god for the rests!! Again lots of awesome hooking. I even got a good knee bar in near the top of the second section. Even though I was 4th on the line, I couldn't see any other pick marks. By the time I got to the second rest area, I could barely hold my axes! Very strenuous climb. But Stuart and Mike F. had gone across the river to get shots of us. With them as my cheering section, I muster the last of my strength to climb the final 10+ ft of ice then scale the rooty 5+ feet of dirt. Roots rule! They held well and in the end I simply grabbed them with my hands to top out...literally crawling. What amazing climbs!! It's the best I've ever climbed - personally and ice quality wise.

It was the perfect climb to end our wonderful primer to Nebraska Ice. The reporters and locals all asked us if we think we liked it enough to come back. Without hesitation...yes!

Home Gym Projects: Green Goblin

Finally did it! Been working on this one on and off for about two months. Nearly had it before leaving town over xmas. Yesterday was the first time climbing since the holidays and I really didn't think I was in shape to do it. But it all came together and I'm so happy to finally nail it!

Our hardest home problem to date, particularly roof holds - (open handed 3 finger pocket followed by right facing crimp to right facing pocket for the left hand before final pocket and out.) Fun, fun, fun!



If you are unable to view the video, click on this --> Green Goblin.

Home gym - Matches Made in Hell

Working on this project for the last month and a half. Took about 3 weeks to get my FA. But I could not do it with shoes on!? My foot just couldn't hold for the long reach to the far left. Probably easiest move on the climb but quite a reach for me. Very aggravating. After about a 3 week break from this problem, got a pair of 5.10 Moccasims...tried the long reach and nailed it. But after a minor injury and two weeks off, I had to re-work the problem. It took about a 3 days, but finally scended...with shoes. :) Here's the video.