Penitente Canyon,

Memorial Day Weekend Climbing Trip

What a super weekend! The trip was organized by the Tuesday crew: Todd Felix, Wally Malles & family, Dave Champion, Jerry Nortshire, Beth Sholes, Bob & Lisa. Kira and kids also joined us. I carpooled there with Todd, Jerry and Dave - hilarious company. Had a blast around the campfire every night especially with the game figliano, beatleman (?), & swartz. The kids helped us channel Jerry Springer and updated this game is a very interesting way! What a blast.

Penitente climbing is short but hard! I loved the hueco climbs but found the thin climbs coupled with run outs very mentally challenging. Ultimately, I didn't manage to really overcome and lead strong. Next time! Fortunately, the other folks in our group are very strong climbers and I got a chance to climb some of the best climbs in the canyon. Two stellar ones are Not My Cross to Bear and Break Down Dead Head.



Couldn't find all the names of the climbs this weekend but here's my best reckoning:

Day 1:

L: How The West Was Won (nice way to start the weekend!)

L: 7/11, 2 takes (ignorantly was on the 11 side...good to know the name of this one before heading up it!)

TR: Concupisent Curds (hard time starting this but did ok on the rest of the thin climb)

TR: ? 10+ across the way and up the canyon a little from 7/11 (also a hard start and swam the rest)

TR: Looney Tunes (yet another hard start! The rest was thin and nice...fingers hurting now!)

TR: Not My Cross to Bear (almost flashed it! Completely lost gas 6' from the anchors and had to take 3 times!)

Day 2:

L: Mr. Wind

Nearly rained out, but wait for an opening and got a very short respite.

L: Ms. Cool, another spooky lead

Strung up the anchors to the left so we could TR that one...big mistake! The skies really opened up at that point. A small production to clean the route of our gear. It was a slightly overhung thin climb...could not get any where on my own and had to aid up to clean it. Lesson learned!

Day 3:

L: What the Hey (An 80 ft climb w/ 4 bolts...you do the math!! Scary for me and thin on top. Did it but can't say I felt any confidence booster afterwards)

TR: Break Down Dead Head (What absolute fun!! Very much like a gym jug haul climb. Screwed the crux near the top but finished easily)

L: ? climb right of Mysterious Redhead, bailed after bolt 2. Got very thin and just couldn't pull any of the moves clean, even on TR. :(

On the way home with Beth, we stopped off at Buena Vista to lunch at Mothers Bistro...literally the BEST quiche I've ever had. So light and tasty! A must stop anytime I'm ever remotely close!! I brought a slice back to Fred...yummmm he reports. :)